It’s not me, it’s you: Why designers are breaking up with New York Fashion Week

Wang becomes the latest name to leave the NYFW show schedule to play by his own rules
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 It’s not me, it’s you: Why designers are breaking up with New York Fashion Week

In a move he described as “a new beginning, a new identity and a new day for my brand,” Alexander Wang revealed his first collection since leaving New York Fashion Week calendar. 

With Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber among the millennials on the runway roll call, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Jourdan Dunn and Pusha T – the Sole DXB 2017 headliner currently embroiled in beef with Drake – respectively fulfilling the supermodel and rapper quota on the FROW, so far so standard. Apart from the fact that it’s June. Wait. What? “By showing in June, the product will already start shipping in early October. So what you see will be a much shortened time frame of being able to get your hands on the product,” he explains, over the traditional model of showing in February or September with the looks dropping in stores six months later. “So we are essentially cutting that time in half.”

However he’s keen to clarify that unlike Tommy Hilfger, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, and Altuzarra, he’s not left the city that never sleeps for good. “We actually only show in New York, so nothing really changes in terms of the scale or the format of how we show. It's really just the timing,” namely to coincide with the Cruise calendar and on the eve of the CDFA Fashion Awards presumably to maximise visibility and A-list attendance.

Another thing Wang has declared so last season is, well, seasons. “One of the things that really feels outdated is these labels of seasons. Being able to think about the product much more by the month enables us to think a little bit more neutrally about the seasonality of the product.”

Highlights from Collection One included a disruptive take on dogtooth worn by Kaia Gerber, boxy biker jackets, and black lace bralets and leather shorts aplenty, with every model rocking a bespoke bandanas – Wangdanas? Anyone? – worn Derek Zoolander style.

Will his bold move pay off? “There's always a risk of course,” he concedes. “You know, if I'm going to fail, I want to fail big.”

Photos: Getty Images