Full disclosure: it wasn’t entirely love at ﬁrst sight when I met Zumi. For the uninitiated, Zumi Rosow is the Los Angelesbased actress and experimental musician who has Alessandro Michele so in her thrall that she now has an entire capsule collection of accessories and footwear – including drawstring bucket bags and knee-high boots – named in her honour. For an artist and muse so wild, the collection with its revived interlocking Gs and horse-bit insignia seemed somewhat restrained in comparison to the cacophonous riot of colour, texture, historical references and characters we’ve come to know and expect from Alessandro Michele’s Gucci.
This glittering aesthetic has been pushed to its limit, so much so that the parody account Fashion Week Frog Instagrammed a picture of Elton John on The Muppet Show ﬂanked by Kermit the Frog, Fozzie Bear and friends in full rainbow regalia with the caption “How the front row at Gucci be lookin’”. Michele himself seems to have acknowledged this for SS20, given that – straightjackets included – it has been the most pared-down collection since his debut in AW15. So now I’ve changed my mind, and recognise Zumi for who she truly is. A symbol of Alessandro’s new dawn at Gucci. The hand(bag) of history is upon us.