The new couture codes: Ashi Studio

As the Middle East’s burgeoning Haute Couture scene continues to gain momentum, discover the designers catering to the contemporary client
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The new couture codes: Ashi Studio
Ashi Studio

“With the growth of the fashion industry and the continually increasing number of fashion designers, the positive challenge is to stand out and force a different style to the others around you,” states Lebanese designer Mohammed Ashi, who launched his couture house out of Beirut in 2007. 

Through exceptionally crafted designs and a dedication to dressing women in immense pieces which only ever complement and never overshadow, Ashi has quietly underscored Middle Eastern couture for a little over a decade.

“The woman of Ashi Studio is a chic and fearless female who dares to show a different perspective to fashion,” he declares.

Where others look towards vivacious colour palettes and an abundance of sparkle, Ashi’s creations instead exude femininity and strength through form and function. AW19 is inspired by grief and the kaleidoscope of emotions in which it may surface.

Juxtapositions between pain and joy and refinement and unravelling, echo throughout the collection, entitled ‘The Silence in the Mirror’.

Magnificent pieces shrouded in the most opulent of embellishment show whispers of distress through delicately dishevelled lace and silk.

Similarly, dresses built from layer upon layer of perfectly pleated tulle unravel and cascade to the floor as quickly as a life that’s been turned upside down.

“The Silence in the Mirror’ exudes the human experience of grief, in all of its aspects, forms, and emotion,” explains Ashi.

Considered injections of vibrant colours such as acid green, coral and orange disrupt an otherwise all black, white and cream collection. The 25 looks also incorporate several signature Ashi techniques, including fabric manipulation, embroidery work, and fabric layering.

Ashi entirely pares back typical Middle Eastern design codes and instead indulges in muscular silhouettes but minus the typical frills and fancies seen at other Houses.

“Middle Eastern roots have always influenced fashion and fashion houses – the rich culture is inspiring," he adds. A big part of our design is influenced by the Middle Eastern woman and her aim for perfection."